What did you do to your NB today? [Archive] - Page 98 (2024)

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figmk5

17th June 2016, 23:07

New home-made floor mats!

https://i.imgur.com/ftxi9m1.jpg

DaftKitteh

18th June 2016, 02:46

Taught myself how to drive a Manual in the first car I've purchased in my lifetime.
Flashing check engine light came on today though, so I'm probably gonna take it to some friends at Oreilly's tomorrow to get the code
http://i.imgur.com/Mrj4da6.jpg

Update though, I took it to the guy who's selling me the car and they figured out the problem. They blew brake cleaner through the EGR Valve(I think that's what they called it) and it fixed the flashing light. Not soon enough to save my catalytic converter though.. :/
Still, I'm happy she's okay. Also the O2 sensor problem apparently fixed itself, because he said my Oxygen levels were perfectly fine. I'm really glad the mechanic selling me the car, a friend of my friend, is a huge fan of Miatas and owns 3 because he makes short work of fixing the problems.
All in all it's been a pretty eventful day.

CMMCK

18th June 2016, 08:59

New home-made floor mats!

https://i.imgur.com/ftxi9m1.jpg

Those are great! They might not be for everyone, but I think they are whimsical and reflect the spirit of the Miata.

Ozvaldo69

18th June 2016, 13:38

Hello folks. I've bought a 2003 (Euro market version) NB a month ago, which sits in a garage in another country that I will be moving to (from Portugal that I live now) in around two months. It was a catch that I didn't wanna miss. It is a 5 speed with lsd, midnight blue with beige leather, Nardi wood steering wheel, shift knob, consol and handbrake plus the original hard top. The car has only 45,000 kms (28,000 miles) on, very well taken care of, not tracked or abused, no accidents other than little parking scratches and no issues other than a slowly dying clutch (but still goes well without problems). Previous owner gave it an intense maintenance treat last year too. I did drive it for 3 days and around 5 or 600 kms in city as well as on highway before leaving it in a garage to rest till August and then I decided to take advantage of this imposed waiting time in Portugal to make some shopping and stock stuff which will be installed when I meet with my Miata again:)

I come from a BMW-heavy owning/driving experience, my last one was a 2011 1M that I had to sell due to a previous moving between continents and very different customs which made it impossible for me to keep the 1M. It was a unique monster and best BMW by far that I had a chance to drive. Last 2 years I was not driving much, also missing the 1M often, I drive occasionaly wife's 2015 Volvo XC 60 diesel-geartronic for family purposes and when time finally came to buy something to just myself for my next residence rather than having just one car for all family, naturally I wanted the exact opposite of the Volvo family hauler! (which is probably the best family car we've ever owned). Always liked Miatas, one of my best friends had a NC once and a colleague had an NA that I enjoyed being in as a passanger in the past and I always admired the philosophy behind Miata, so finally I have mine and I seriously plan to keep it. It simply has everything I need and like in cars (manual-rear wheel drive with lsd-small engine-minimum weight and size and basic comfort equipments) and it does not have anything I really don't need or don't like (electronics, weight, over-size, automatic gearbox-too much or too little power) so it is perfect for me as only a Miata could be in our times.

Below is the list of goodies that I already bought and stocked followed by a shorter next-to-do list, any advice or suggestions are most welcome. The car is 100% stock for now with the exception of JBL speakers and aftermarket (better than OE) halogen bulbs for the headlights.

- Remus rear exhaust
- Raked short antenna
- Cobalt grid style black/silver pedal set
- Smoked wing repeaters with chromed rings (from Moss UK)
- Hard Top storage pouch
- Black protective radiator grill
- Chrome rings for air vents (this and following interior chromed parts are from I.L. Motorsport)
- Chrome ring for hazard warning signal
- Chromed meter rings for smaller meters (oil pressure-coolant-fuel)
- Additional black (with MX 5 logo) factory mats for winter (car has new beige carpets which I plan to keep for summer use and the blacks for the winter)
- Factory Kombi First Aid Bag with Mazda logo (includes kit, vest, triangle)
- Meguiar's Headlight Restoration Kit
- New battery (already installed)

Next:
- New clutch/flywheel (depending on diagnosis)
- Winter tires (Michelin Alpin 5 which has 205/45 16 size)
- Transmision and brake fluid flush in addition to next regular maintenance job (diferential fluid already done last year together with spark plugs, brake pads, front discs, oxygen sensors and tires are new Falkens)
- Paint detailing and headlight restoration
- Minor repairing and care of the leather seats and va la!

Unusualdesigner

18th June 2016, 16:40

:welcome:

Sounds like a great buy. When you can, posts some pictures, especially with some awesome backgrounds.

SVpokey

18th June 2016, 16:57

Hello folks. I've bought a 2003 (Euro market version) NB... and va la!You'll want a trombone cleaning brush (or similar) to clean out the drain holes, especially if you drive it in winter.

If you don't like a car to do things or make decisions for you, then you may also want to unplug the AC plug from the defroster knob. That way the compressor will only come on when you press the AC button yourself. I unplugged mine, because that really stood out as something that is out of place on this car.

The window tracks probably need to be re-lubed at this age. It is really satisfying the way they thud up and down when freshly lubricated.

I recommend inspecting the shift boots. If torn, the lower one will let crud into your trans oil, and the upper one will cook your leg, even on a cold day.

I also think that Bluetooth, and good cell holders for BOTH driver and passenger make a world of difference. Everyone who rides with me is thrilled to find a cell holder on their side.

Congrats on the purchase, and on the move. I hope you love the car, and your new location. Send pictures!. ;-)

SVpokey

18th June 2016, 16:59

:welcome:

Sounds like a great buy. When you can, posts some pictures, especially with some awesome backgrounds.Good point! We don't get to see Europe much from here.

jrmrbcax

18th June 2016, 17:17

Getting it patched now..

https://s32.postimg.org/dylsfqbgl/image.jpg

Ozvaldo69

18th June 2016, 17:26

Great advices, thanks a lot! I will check and keep an eye on all what you say except the AC issue because this particular car does not have an AC, it was an option in these markets at the time I guess. It is a well equipped car otherwise, with remote locks, double airbags, ABS, heated leather seats, power windows and mirrors etc. but not with AC or cruise control which, I understand, was standard equipment in most versions of a 2003 Miata in US.

I am not sure yet if I will really need AC or not, maybe it can even be a good thing because it is one of those things that you get used to pretty easily and then can't do without, and I heard that Miata's 1.8 liter atmospheric engine is not famous for its low down torque nor its performance while the AC is on, so let's wait and see, if I feel like I rather have it then Mazda dealers can install one, admittedly for a hefty price.

I really dislike cell phones while driving or the cruise control, have never used those two "facilities" in my cars so I guess I can live without them in a roadster, having said that I noticed on the highway driving with Miata that cruise control for once could be useful for keeping my right leg happier.

You'll want a trombone cleaning brush (or similar) to clean out the drain holes, especially if you drive it in winter.

If you don't like a car to do things or make decisions for you, then you may also want to unplug the AC plug from the defroster knob. That way the compressor will only come on when you press the AC button yourself. I unplugged mine, because that really stood out as something that is out of place on this car.

The window tracks probably need to be re-lubed at this age. It is really satisfying the way they thud up and down when freshly lubricated.

I recommend inspecting the shift boots. If torn, the lower one will let crud into your trans oil, and the upper one will cook your leg, even on a cold day.

I also think that Bluetooth, and good cell holders for BOTH driver and passenger make a world of difference. Everyone who rides with me is thrilled to find a cell holder on their side.

Congrats on the purchase, and on the move. I hope you love the car, and your new location. Send pictures!. ;-)

Ozvaldo69

18th June 2016, 17:47

Good point! We don't get to see Europe much from here.

Don't have many pictures yet, especially with nice backgrounds but here you go:

Spanner

18th June 2016, 22:14

I sent my daughter and new son-in-law into wedded bliss :)

daender

18th June 2016, 22:17

Don't have many pictures yet, especially with nice backgrounds but here you go:

Holy cow, nice find! Seems like the owner has done what Seashed and I have done and sourced wooden trim. That Nardi 5-speed knob is a bit rare, they regularly trade for 100$ to 200$ depending on the condition. Then again, I'm not well-versed in European special edition Miatas, so I don't know what options they may have come with.

SVpokey

19th June 2016, 02:17

Today I gave my Miata a break, and rode the motorcycle to work instead.

Ozvaldo69

19th June 2016, 05:04

Holy cow, nice find! Seems like the owner has done what Seashed and I have done and sourced wooden trim. That Nardi 5-speed knob is a bit rare, they regularly trade for 100$ to 200$ depending on the condition. Then again, I'm not well-versed in European special edition Miatas, so I don't know what options they may have come with.

Thanks, I think the first owner either sourced the wooden kit or tailored it as it is now at the time of order through dealer. I bought it from the second owner who himself bought a newer Miata (NC) instead. He was a young guy who was with this NB for a year or so and he told me that his mother complained when he brought the NC home and asked him to pay me back and don't let the NB go because it is "so much nicer", she complained. I think he made the change because he also got engaged and the fiance was feeling better with a newer car with more goodies. I rode with him in his NC and other than being newer and with more grunt didn't notice anything better indeed. Felt a heavier, more serious car, maybe that was what he and the fiance needed.

Ozvaldo69

19th June 2016, 05:09

I sent my daughter and new son-in-law into wedded bliss :)

I just showed this photo to my daughters (8 and 5 years old) and told them this might happen one day with them or they might just go to college together switching the drivers seat, their faces have illuminated with anticipated joy! I also have a 2003 Midnight Blue Mica:) Cheers.

LeoDLion

19th June 2016, 07:13

My 3-year old battery will not charge enough to start the car. So have to buy and install a new one.

Spanner

19th June 2016, 07:55

I just showed this photo to my daughters (8 and 5 years old) and told them this might happen one day with them or they might just go to college together switching the drivers seat, their faces have illuminated with anticipated joy! I also have a 2003 Midnight Blue Mica:) Cheers.:thumbs:

Uncle Hoonsalot

19th June 2016, 11:04

Contemplated picking up a 4.10 Torsen to swap for my 3.90 one. I've got an '02 with a 6-speed and the gears are just stupid long.

A quick check on fleabay shows 4.10s with buy it nows in the $600 range, while 3.90s seem closer to $900-$1K. Is there something in missing? It seems like I should be able to get the gears I want and also put some cash in my pocket. Which I'd be good with.

RPA

19th June 2016, 11:30

Parked my SE in the #1 position at our church Father's Day breakfast/car show.

https://s26.postimg.org/cjuvqd3rt/IMG_1.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

And what do you know, a very nice NA showed up to help show up the Camaro's, Chevelle's and Mustangs!

https://s26.postimg.org/52lob5e8p/IMG_2.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

Unusualdesigner

19th June 2016, 14:12

Contemplated picking up a 4.10 Torsen to swap for my 3.90 one. I've got an '02 with a 6-speed and the gears are just stupid long.

A quick check on fleabay shows 4.10s with buy it nows in the $600 range, while 3.90s seem closer to $900-$1K. Is there something in missing? It seems like I should be able to get the gears I want and also put some cash in my pocket. Which I'd be good with.

Most everyone is concerned with LOWER highway RPM, IMO. :dunno:

4:10 will give a tiny bit more "grunt" but don't expect "pinned to the back of the seat" performance. :)

Uncle Hoonsalot

19th June 2016, 16:13

Most everyone is concerned with LOWER highway RPM, IMO. :dunno:

4:10 will give a tiny bit more "grunt" but don't expect "pinned to the back of the seat" performance. :)

Haha yeah I do get that. It does cruise along a little nicer on the highway. But it's still loud, and I don't take that many road trips. But I do drive it to work every day and am usually struck by how long the gears are.

I need a turbo for "pinned to the back of the seat" performance!

Felyxorez

19th June 2016, 18:57

Don't have many pictures yet, especially with nice backgrounds but here you go:

Very beautiful! The wooden steering wheel of the miata is one of the few cool wooden wheels with airbag.

Chris GTO TT

19th June 2016, 21:15

Haha yeah I do get that. It does cruise along a little nicer on the highway. But it's still loud, and I don't take that many road trips. But I do drive it to work every day and am usually struck by how long the gears are.

I need a turbo for "pinned to the back of the seat" performance!

I get the feeling you haven't really driven a car with actually long gears...my old 3000GT VR-4 would do 125mph in 3rd gear:rofl:

Uncle Hoonsalot

19th June 2016, 22:07

I get the feeling you haven't really driven a car with actually long gears...my old 3000GT VR-4 would do 125mph in 3rd gear:rofl:

Wow! That's pretty long.

2013+ GT500s will do 95 in 2nd. And then try to break the rear end loose again when you shift to 3rd. That was a fairly terrifying experience.

Ozvaldo69

20th June 2016, 04:51

Very beautiful! The wooden steering wheel of the miata is one of the few cool wooden wheels with airbag.

Thanks, I do feel the same about the wooden trim, especially the steering wheel.

rsv1rem

20th June 2016, 07:26

Took a little early evening ride along West Virginia's back roads.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/eocbob1/MX-5/MX-5%20DR%20007_zpsxuufp6yj.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/eocbob1/media/MX-5/MX-5%20DR%20007_zpsxuufp6yj.jpg.html)

sbetz

20th June 2016, 10:57

Finished installing new top this weekend!
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AitmacwGY31XsYMSjxtoOI8GdAk9PQ

Artes340

20th June 2016, 14:18

Installed shifter bushings, lower and upper boots.

sbetz

20th June 2016, 15:53

Try this again - https://goo.gl/photos/nioHHW6kATXR2gjw8
Finished installing new top this weekend!
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AitmacwGY31XsYMSjxtoOI8GdAk9PQ

bobesser

20th June 2016, 16:07

Try this again - [IMG]https://goo.gl/photos/nioHHW6kATXR2gjw8

Steve,

I copied the address into a browser window and the top looks nice. Which brand/model?

I couldn't figure out how to get a direct link to the picture to post here. I use imgur, which seems to work pretty well.

Bob

Also, I finished painting the drivers side.
http://i.imgur.com/jJLapzPl.jpg

ed3rd

20th June 2016, 16:28

I got home from work, hot and humid so I had the AC on full blast all the way. Water was dripping from the dash making a puddle on the passenger side floor, I figured I must have a condensate drain plugged or something like that. Googled the forum and found what I needed. I found the condensate container, cleaned it and the hose and all should be well tomorrow

bobesser

20th June 2016, 16:29

I got home from work, hot and humid so I had the AC on full blast all the way. Water was dripping from the dash making a puddle on the passenger side floor, I figured I must have a condensate drain plugged or something like that. Googled the forum and found what I needed. I found the condensate container, cleaned it and the hose and all should be well tomorrow

Please post a pic of location and link to the thread that explains how.

ed3rd

20th June 2016, 16:57

I would if I could but Im on my tablet which does not work well for me here. I'll do it tomorrow from work.

SVpokey

21st June 2016, 10:18

Took a little early evening ride along West Virginia's back roads.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/eocbob1/MX-5/MX-5%20DR%20007_zpsxuufp6yj.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/eocbob1/media/MX-5/MX-5%20DR%20007_zpsxuufp6yj.jpg.html)

You win today. See you tomorrow.

youngestpipercub

21st June 2016, 12:21

Yesterday evening I went for a drive :)

Kylini

21st June 2016, 12:27

If I'm going to continue rallycrossing, I really need to improve my radiator. I'm on the fence between the FM and 949Racing crossflow radiators and am surprised at the nearly $200 price difference between the two.

Due to class rules, I'd prefer to buy whichever of the two is over, but closest to stock weight when full. To estimate that, I need dry weight and precise volume information (or someone who's weighed them side-by-side).

JonK67

21st June 2016, 13:09

Ordered the Klasse kit from autogeek and got 20% off with code DAD2016. Includes all-in-one cleaner, paint sealer, pads and towels. Not cheap at $50 with shipping and discount but should be able to do my 2 nice cars 12x ea. Hopefully have it by this weekend to see what it does to the brilliant black.

sbetz

21st June 2016, 15:50

Bob - Got it from Amazon:
Mazda Miata Convertible Top 90-05 One-Piece Non-Zippered Heated Glass Window in Tan Cabrio Vinyl
by Sierra Auto Tops & Seats
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O0FP330/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$250 + $100 for Rain Rail, free shipping -- They attached the Rain Rail prior to shipping as well

bobesser

21st June 2016, 15:54

Bob - Got it from Amazon:
Mazda Miata Convertible Top 90-05 One-Piece Non-Zippered Heated Glass Window in Tan Cabrio Vinyl
by Sierra Auto Tops & Seats
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O0FP330/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$250 + $100 for Rain Rail, free shipping -- They attached the Rain Rail prior to shipping as well

I had been looking at that one. How long did it take you to install? Was it easy, hard, instructions? Did it have a headliner? Also, is the window the same size? Finally, now that you have it, do you think tan or light tan would be more like the factory color?

Bob

sbetz

21st June 2016, 16:23

Bob,
I'd say it took about 4-6 hours. I'd say it was relatively easy to install. I had never done one of these before. I removed the entire top frame along with the rain rail. I only needed assistance with placing the top back onto the car. the only problem I ran into was that some of the rivets didn't hold - I had to buy some 5/32 (1/2" long) from Home Depot. These were actually a bit bigger than the ones that were supplied with the top so they worked better.
I believe the window is the same size. -- can pull it out of dumpster and check.
Instructions were minimal. I used internet videos and step-by-step to get me up to speed prior to doing the work. this is pretty good resource - http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/instructions/239-022.pdf
After looking at it - I think I know what I did wrong on the velcro "headliner" piece. sure I can fix it without too much trouble.

doane2u

22nd June 2016, 11:49

I'm curious to know how hard it is to close the top. The Vinyl ones seem to be really stiff and very hard to close/latch. I've read the same from several comments on the Amazon forum where this one is sold.

Chris GTO TT

22nd June 2016, 12:10

I'm curious to know how hard it is to close the top. The Vinyl ones seem to be really stiff and very hard to close/latch. I've read the same from several comments on the Amazon forum where this one is sold.

It's the same with any new top. When I installed a Robbins streamlined top on my NA I had to set the brake rotors for my Legacy on the top, park it in the sun and adjust the top latches out as far as they would go to get the top to close the first time. If they made it easy to close the first time it would be saggy on the frame and people would complain about the wrinkles.

figmk5

22nd June 2016, 14:20

Bob,
I'd say it took about 4-6 hours. I'd say it was relatively easy to install. I had never done one of these before. I removed the entire top frame along with the rain rail. I only needed assistance with placing the top back onto the car. the only problem I ran into was that some of the rivets didn't hold - I had to buy some 5/32 (1/2" long) from Home Depot. These were actually a bit bigger than the ones that were supplied with the top so they worked better.
I believe the window is the same size. -- can pull it out of dumpster and check.
Instructions were minimal. I used internet videos and step-by-step to get me up to speed prior to doing the work. this is pretty good resource - http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/instructions/239-022.pdf
After looking at it - I think I know what I did wrong on the velcro "headliner" piece. sure I can fix it without too much trouble.

This is great information, thanks! I'm thinking of ordering this top, but I'm concerned about the "get what you pay for" factor. Are there any significant disadvantages going with this top rather than something from Robbins, etc?

sbetz

22nd June 2016, 15:55

Bob,
I measured the window - yes - the new one is slightly smaller than the original.
About 1 inch shorter and between 1/2 - 1" wider depending on where you measure.

doane2u - 1st time closing it is very tight. Had to pull very hard and have clamps out all the way to get it engaged.
I left it up in the sun for a few days. Now closing seems normal (not difficult at all).

masarwar

22nd June 2016, 17:49

Took a wire brush and some dish washing soap to the 15inch factory alloys. They were really dirty from 17 years of use and i hated seeing them on the car. Called a few shops and everyone was quoting around $400 for just powder coating and that was without the extra cost of removing, remounting and balancing. This makes so much difference now in looks with clean rims. I think i might just get some sand paper and take out some of the tougher imperfection.

Also installed my racing beats dual exhaust and WOW does it makes a difference. Love the sound!!

sbetz

22nd June 2016, 18:05

figmk5
I don't know - I have only heard good things about the Robins tops but this is my first experience with installing a new top. Can't really comment on comparing vs other products. I have no way of telling how long this will last but it seems to be pretty good quality to me. I know the Robins tops offer zip out windows which would be nice but I decided to go with more cost effective option. I figured, if I'm going to have the back window down, why wouldn't I just take the whole top down?

SVpokey

22nd June 2016, 22:07

Also installed my racing beats dual exhaust and WOW does it makes a difference. Love the sound!!How loud is it? I hate loud exhausts, but I love the way the Miata growls down low. If there's an exhaust the extends that growl higher into the rev range, then I'm in.I figured, if I'm going to have the back window down, why wouldn't I just take the whole top down?Because sunburn.

masarwar

22nd June 2016, 22:59

How loud is it? I hate loud exhausts, but I love the way the Miata growls down low. If there's an exhaust the extends that growl higher into the rev range, then I'm in.Because sunburn.

Believe it or not but this is EXACTLY what you need. No loud exhaust at all. If you love how miata growls in low mids then this will give it a real nice tone to it. Its an awesome exhaust for the money when new ( i got it for like 1/5 of the price here if you factor in shipping and taxes and conversion for new). I honestly feel that this shouldve been OEM. I will put this way... my wife doesnt care about cars. She hates loud trucks. When i put the top down she asked me if there was something different about the car as she liked how it sounded.. so that should tell you alot about its performance!! I even turn down the radio to hear it!

I am loving this car every day with every drive. If i had a spare bedroom and a way to get the car in i would have parked it in my house!

Slartidbartfast

23rd June 2016, 08:35

Wow! That's pretty long.

2013+ GT500s will do 95 in 2nd. And then try to break the rear end loose again when you shift to 3rd. That was a fairly terrifying experience.
There are several motorcycles that will approach 100mph in FIRST gear - ZX10R supposedly around 105 in first. Not quite relevant to Miatas I know but still an interesting gearhead fact.

On topic: I fixed the broken rear window on my Miata AGAIN. Cheap flexible goo works much better to hold the plexiglass temporary replacement window (until I get round to buying and fitting a new top) in place much better than expensive specialist epoxy.

Uncle Hoonsalot

23rd June 2016, 09:17

There are several motorcycles that will approach 100mph in FIRST gear - ZX10R supposedly around 105 in first. Not quite relevant to Miatas I know but still an interesting gearhead fact.

On topic: I fixed the broken rear window on my Miata AGAIN. Cheap flexible goo works much better to hold the plexiglass temporary replacement window (until I get round to buying and fitting a new top) in place much better than expensive specialist epoxy.

Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy?

Do you know where your towel is?

figmk5

23rd June 2016, 09:24

Got a fresh detail yesterday. Unbelievably stoked on how it turned out. Cleaned up real nice for a $3k Miata!

https://i.imgur.com/TGrcplah.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/e5IrV2Wh.jpg

masarwar

23rd June 2016, 14:53

Got a fresh detail yesterday. Unbelievably stoked on how it turned out. Cleaned up real nice for a $3k Miata!

https://i.imgur.com/TGrcplah.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/e5IrV2Wh.jpg

Hi, what do you have on the front of your miata below the bumper? what kind of lip is it and is it easy to buy and attach as well? really makes the NB look gorgeous.

klavender

23rd June 2016, 15:30

It definitely makes the guppy mouth a little better.

masarwar

23rd June 2016, 15:55

It definitely makes the guppy mouth a little better.

HA! its like as if the miata is always in a state of surprise!

figmk5

23rd June 2016, 19:07

I got that lip on eBay for $120, it's a "DS Style" lip. I tried to figure out what exactly DS Style is but came up with nothing. Very easy to install: 11 self tapping screws were included and only 10 were needed. Very clearly marked where the screws go. Took me 15 minutes to mount. Thanks guys!

doane2u

23rd June 2016, 22:18

I added a pull strap to the top so that I can easily raise the top from the drivers seat without having to get out of the car and I can lower it gently with more control.
I started a thread on it here with instructions and photos. (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=613473)

http://doanehoag.com/Forums/Cars/Miata/Alterations/NB%20top%20strap%206(1).jpg

SVpokey

24th June 2016, 05:31

Believe it or not but this is EXACTLY what you need. No loud exhaust at all. If you love how miata growls in low mids then this will give it a real nice tone to it. Its an awesome exhaust for the money when new ( i got it for like 1/5 of the price here if you factor in shipping and taxes and conversion for new). I honestly feel that this shouldve been OEM. I will put this way... my wife doesnt care about cars. She hates loud trucks. When i put the top down she asked me if there was something different about the car as she liked how it sounded.. so that should tell you alot about its performance!! I even turn down the radio to hear it!

I am loving this car every day with every drive. If i had a spare bedroom and a way to get the car in i would have parked it in my house!You're describing the stock exhaust on my Suzuki Gladius. My wife couldn't care less about cars either, though she loves riding in mine, and on the back of my bike even more, and she too has commented on how much she likes the sound of the bike's exhaust. I already like the sound of the Miata enough to turn the radio down, and I often do exactly that. Especially on cutvy roads. I tend to like intake sound more than exhaust, but if I could have a little more growl, a little further into the rev range I'd be very happy.
Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy?

Do you know where your towel is?You're going to like my vanity plate. We requested "THE 42". I wanted just "42" but you must have at least 2 letters in NH. The 42 is always Miata, right? I'm shopping for a Don't Panic license plate frame. There are almost too many to chose from.
Got a fresh detail yesterday. Unbelievably stoked on how it turned out. Cleaned up real nice for a $3k Miata.Wow. That looks incredible. What does a detail like that cost?

Uncle Hoonsalot

24th June 2016, 09:16

Y

You're going to like my vanity plate. We requested "THE 42". I wanted just "42" but you must have at least 2 letters in NH. The 42 is always Miata, right? I'm shopping for a Don't Panic license plate frame. There are almost too many to chose from.

Ha. That is indeed an excellent license plate!

Slartidbartfast

24th June 2016, 09:21

This is great information, thanks! I'm thinking of ordering this top, but I'm concerned about the "get what you pay for" factor. Are there any significant disadvantages going with this top rather than something from Robbins, etc?
Don't know about disadvantages. I'd say going with a cheaper product other than Robbins would be an advantage, especially if the top is damaged because it won't hurt so badly to replace it.

When I broke the rear window on a 1-year-old, $700+ top-of-the-line Robbins canvas top and called them about getting a replacement, they told me to go pound sand. They won't sell the glass or the zip-out section separately and made it clear they don't like taking tech support calls at all.

I currently have a plexiglass rear window glued in, which is not as nice to look at or through and I expect it could come loose again at an inconvenient time. When the time comes for replacement, I will definitely NOT be sending any of my hard-earned Robbins' way.

Slartidbartfast

24th June 2016, 09:25

I added a pull strap to the top so that I can easily raise the top from the drivers seat without having to get out of the car and I can lower it gently with more control.
I started a thread on it here with instructions and photos. (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=613473)

http://doanehoag.com/Forums/Cars/Miata/Alterations/NB%20top%20strap%206(1).jpg

Nice idea! I have to get out of the car to put the hood up due to the roll bar but with a pull strap I could avoid that. Just need to figure out how to arrange it so it doesn't get in the way when not in use.

zellers88

24th June 2016, 09:50

Got the hardtop latches unbolted from my new hardtop to remove the side ones and replace the nubs on the top ones. Lots of cursing involved to get the top ones off. Something to heat up the bolt (I used a butane soldering iron) and the correct JIS bits are must haves.

Got the hardtop latches unbolted from my new hardtop to remove the side ones and replace the nubs on the top ones. Lots of cursing involved to get the top ones off. Something to heat up the bolt (I used a butane soldering iron) and the correct JIS bits are must haves.

Yeah if they've never been off especially, they are a bear. My top is an early '90 or so top and the latches had never been off. I needed to swap them with the correct style for my '04. I ended up rounding one of them off and had to use a dremel to grind a slot into it for a screwdriver, then had to heat it up to get it out. Not a fun time.

Unusualdesigner

24th June 2016, 10:08

HT latch screws have a lot of red Loctite like material that needs to be heated considerably to remove.

I use a large soldering iron, the ones that look like Mongo's screwdriver to heat up the bolt then quickly use a #3 JIS bit on a impact driver to remove it. Often I have to stop and re-heat the screw before it's out all the way.

I have done 3 tops that way for club members that want to install locking latches and have not damaged a single screw.

Takes some time but it's doable.

doane2u

24th June 2016, 10:17

How loud is it? I hate loud exhausts, but I love the way the Miata growls down low. If there's an exhaust the extends that growl higher into the rev range, then I'm in. Because sunburn.

I got the Roadster Sport (http://www.mossmiata.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=73736) and I love it. I had heard both the Racing Beat and RS and I like the sound of the RS better. With the insert, (included) in place it isn't so loud that it sounds obnoxious around town and with it out it's really impressive if you're going to a track meet or what ever.

http://www.mossmiata.com/Graphics/Products/Large/904-256_1_1.jpg

doane2u

24th June 2016, 10:28

Nice idea! I have to get out of the car to put the hood up due to the roll bar but with a pull strap I could avoid that. Just need to figure out how to arrange it so it doesn't get in the way when not in use.

Did you check out the links? (click here) (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=613473) If you can reach back and touch the grab handle you can get by with the short one and with the top down you can tuck it under the fold and with the top up you can put it behind either visor.

If you plan on using the long one, because you can't reach back, because of a roll bar or cage. See the thread where Hatchracket described it (click here) (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=8056175&postcount=18), he figured out a way to attach it with velcro

SMLierow

24th June 2016, 13:23

I installed the 'Doane Strap' as mentioned above. A decade long issue, fixed for $4!

Spacecat

24th June 2016, 14:04

After 6 months of having them, I finally finished up the install of my new wheels and Flyin' Miata Koni Stage 2 kit. I was impressed on my short test run last night. Big improvement over the 18lb stock wheels and the 134k mile OEM shocks. Going in for an alignment and a car wash tomorrow. :thumbs:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-193105QcQSw/V21DIewtLDI/AAAAAAAAYfg/xlUxPoobCyER0Ek47mQBfeOUjvppepr0wCL0B/w673-h505-no/2016-06-24.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-55En2a_ALWw/V21DJRKLSwI/AAAAAAAAYfg/DogByy8PkiEinX5kTV51WugEcFYYjA27wCL0B/w673-h505-no/2016-06-24.jpg

thecause17

24th June 2016, 14:33

After 6 months of having them, I finally finished up the install of my new wheels and Flyin' Miata Koni Stage 2 kit. I was impressed on my short test run last night. Big improvement over the 18lb stock wheels and the 134k mile OEM shocks. Going in for an alignment and a car wash tomorrow. :thumbs:

Looks great, what wheel/tire size are those? I have the same suspension and will probably be going with the same wheel in the future.

Spacecat

24th June 2016, 14:38

Looks great, what wheel/tire size are those? I have the same suspension and will probably be going with the same wheel in the future.

Thanks! They're Nickel 15x8 with Yokohama Advan Neova A08R 205/45R15

thecause17

24th June 2016, 14:50

Thanks! They're Nickel 15x8 with Yokohama Advan Neova A08R 205/45R15

Edited: Oops, misread.

zellers88

24th June 2016, 15:49

Wow, never really see many putting 205's on the 9's, something I hadn't considered myself. I guess that's about the only way you'd be running the 9's with the FM/Koni combo.

You might want to reread what he said.

thecause17

24th June 2016, 15:52

You might want to reread what he said.

Hmmm, I could've sworn it said 9, oh well, I must have misread. :bang:

Chris GTO TT

24th June 2016, 15:59

I'm about 90% sure the rebuilt alternator I got from O'Reilys is bad. Last couple of times I've driven it the HVAC blower fan slows way down and my OBDII reader shows 10.8V :(

WolfgangK

24th June 2016, 16:05

I was starting to see a leak where the top hose fed the radiator. Did a quick fix with another second hose clamp, but then decided to fix it the other night. Lucky I did! When I removed the hose I found that the radiator inlet nipple was cracked lengthwise on my yellowish green radiator and the material was very brittle! A veritable time bomb. Replaced with a basic Amazon TYC radiator - no problems except for that silly plastic bottom pan. "Just takes a few minutes" said one set of instructions. How about almost an hour? Apparently on the 99AE there is an extra nut on each side under the plastic wheel cowlings and, of course, a another attachment arm that needed removing first. :ohno: Well, it was finally done and the radiator went well. Of course I replaced all the older rusty bolts/nuts with new, poly-sprayed ones in the process.
Only problem is, I still have a small gurgling sound as she is cooling down (from the front of the engine?) which I can't figure out. Perhaps an air bubble?:dunno: Anyone else have this issue?
Wolfgang

Unusualdesigner

24th June 2016, 18:29

I'm about 90% sure the rebuilt alternator I got from O'Reilys is bad. Last couple of times I've driven it the HVAC blower fan slows way down and my OBDII reader shows 10.8V :(

Or it could be a slipping belt. Make sure they are TIGHT. -really.

Unusualdesigner

24th June 2016, 18:34

...Only problem is, I still have a small gurgling sound as she is cooling down (from the front of the engine?) which I can't figure out. Perhaps an air bubble?:dunno: Anyone else have this issue?
Wolfgang

Sometimes it takes a bit to remove that last bit of air out of the system. THIS FUNNEL KIT (https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY) allows you to run the car with the radiator cap off and let it burp itself just sitting on your driveway.

boomercarguy

24th June 2016, 19:38

Sometimes it takes a bit to remove that last bit of air out of the system. THIS FUNNEL KIT (https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY) allows you to run the car with the radiator cap off and let it burp itself just sitting on your driveway.

I have this kit which fits all of my cars. It is excellent and it works!

SoonerMiata02

24th June 2016, 19:47

I got the Roadster Sport (http://www.mossmiata.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=73736) and I love it. I had heard both the Racing Beat and RS and I like the sound of the RS better. With the insert, (included) in place it isn't so loud that it sounds obnoxious around town and with it out it's really impressive if you're going to a track meet or what ever.

http://www.mossmiata.com/Graphics/Products/Large/904-256_1_1.jpg
You might have just cost me $350

doane2u

24th June 2016, 19:59

I installed the 'Doane Strap' as mentioned above. A decade long issue, fixed for $4!

I feel the same way, wish I had done this two years ago! :thumbs:

doane2u

24th June 2016, 20:02

You might have just cost me $350

I don't think you would be disappointed with either of them. I just like the RS better and I like the replaceable baffle, nice feature.

When removing your old one, use a lot of KY jelly on the rubber hangers; it really helps in getting them off (no pun intended :rolleyes:) and getting them back on (up :rolleyes:) again.

Let us know what you think if you get it.

SoonerMiata02

24th June 2016, 20:59

I don't think you would be disappointed with either of them. I just like the RS better and I like the replaceable baffle, nice feature.

When removing your old one, use a lot of KY jelly on the rubber hangers; it really helps in getting them off (no pun intended :rolleyes:) and getting them back on (up :rolleyes:) again.

Let us know what you think if you get it.
I'll be posting in a few days. I just ordered an RS.

SMLierow

24th June 2016, 21:02

Today I drove the MSM to my wife's work to add more oil to her oil guzzling Cooper S.

figmk5

24th June 2016, 21:58

I painted the windshield surround black with plasti dip, pardon the messy garage!

https://i.imgur.com/bSClLQI.jpg

Unusualdesigner

24th June 2016, 22:51

..When removing your old one, use a lot of KY jelly on the rubber hangers; it really helps in getting them off (no pun intended :rolleyes:) and getting them back on (up :rolleyes:) again.

Or use one of THESE (https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-38350-Exhaust-Removal-Pliers/dp/B0012S9A5U/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466823025&sr=1-1&keywords=Lisle+38350+Exhaust+Removal+Pliers) to pop the hangers off.

Spacecat

24th June 2016, 23:31

Hmmm, I could've sworn it said 9, oh well, I must have misread. :bang:

Sorry, it did say 15x9 for about 30 seconds- I saw my error and corrected it on my way to a meeting. You're not crazy.

m3mackenzie

24th June 2016, 23:35

I painted the windshield surround black with plasti dip, pardon the messy garage!

https://i.imgur.com/bSClLQI.jpg

That looks really good!

Spacecat

24th June 2016, 23:35

247057Added these personalized plates today - those are the nicknames of me and my wife (SEAn & SAraH). Coincidentally, we also design children's toys.

doane2u

25th June 2016, 00:11

Or use one of THESE (https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-38350-Exhaust-Removal-Pliers/dp/B0012S9A5U/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466823025&sr=1-1&keywords=Lisle+38350+Exhaust+Removal+Pliers) to pop the hangers off.

Those are handy, but you can get by with a pair of vice grips and a pry bar and the KY or other lubricant made for rubber makes a huge difference, especially when trying to put them back on again. I don't know where the thread is now, but these were pix from it from a few years ago:

http://doanehoag.com/Forums/Cars/Miata/General/My_muffler-tools_.jpg

This shows the proceedure I used after first lubing up the bushing. I clamped the vice grips on the hanger rod, then used the pry bar to pry it off the end of the bar.
http://doanehoag.com/Forums/Cars/Miata/General/My_muffler_removal1_.jpg

Unusualdesigner

25th June 2016, 01:20

Too much work. The pliers are faster. :D

SVpokey

25th June 2016, 07:11

Sometimes it takes a bit to remove that last bit of air out of the system. THIS FUNNEL KIT (https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY) allows you to run the car with the radiator cap off and let it burp itself just sitting on your driveway.I have (or had... It seems to be missing) a very similar kit. It is an outstanding product. When I worked in a shop, I was constantly loaning it out. It worked on everything we ever tried it on including some dodge trucks that were rumored to be impossible to burp the last air out of.

SVpokey

25th June 2016, 07:15

Two days ago I got new tired and an AC recharge. Yesterday I detailed the car and I got my Cool Breeze vent AND approval for my vanity plate. Today, I'm going for a drive to my brothers house. My wife has plans, but if I'm lucky, my daughter will wake up in time to go with me.

thecause17

25th June 2016, 07:20

Sorry, it did say 15x9 for about 30 seconds- I saw my error and corrected it on my way to a meeting. You're not crazy.

I knew it!

Unusualdesigner

25th June 2016, 09:17

I have (or had... It seems to be missing) a very similar kit. It is an outstanding product. When I worked in a shop, I was constantly loaning it out. It worked on everything we ever tried it on including some dodge trucks that were rumored to be impossible to burp the last air out of.

One that is a PITA to burp out are the '95-'98 Lincoln MK VIII. The DOHC 4.6 uses a remote radiator tank and you fill the system via a plug on a crossover tube at the front of the intake manifold. Takes 2-3 hot-cold cycles to get the last air bubble out of the block and to that hole.

figmk5

25th June 2016, 13:09

That looks really good!

Thanks very much, I took a clearer picture of it this morning:

https://i.imgur.com/9ZxJNa7.jpg

I've got a new black soft-top coming in the mail. The fresh black pillars make the top look faded by comparison! (and because it's really faded)

zellers88

25th June 2016, 15:29

That looks pretty cool :thumbs:

thecause17

25th June 2016, 15:48

Got rid of my visors today and covered the holes with the covers from Moss.
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii278/thecause17/visordelete.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/user/thecause17/media/visordelete.jpg.html)

In the process I realized that the latches on my soft top were the older incorrect type. The PO told me when I bought the car that the guy he bought it off of installed a different set of latches because he felt the originals rattled too much. He gave me the originals when I bought the car and I found that one of the caps was cracked and missing off of one side, probably the source of the rattle. Anyway, I had to rob those off of my hard top to put back on the soft top. When I went to remove the ones he installed, all the screws were either loose or barely tight. :rolleyes:

pballer225

25th June 2016, 20:09

Installed my custom intake today. Still have to relocate the A/C and fog light relays and remove that bracket, as well as replace this blue hose with a black one. The intake sounds amazing over 3500 RPMS or under load, and can be heard easily over my enthuza exhaust. http://i.imgur.com/2zNVLOk.jpg

bobesser

25th June 2016, 20:57

I did this:

http://i.imgur.com/YORkB1Al.jpg

Then ordered a replacement top from autotopsdirect

Spacecat

25th June 2016, 21:04

Washed it!

247099

J3cubrc

25th June 2016, 21:22

247100247101

Completed the new radio install, 650 watt amp in the trunk, and put a new passenger side headlight in to match the one replaced by Geico.

thecause17

25th June 2016, 21:51

247100247101

Completed the new radio install, 650 watt amp in the trunk, and put a new passenger side headlight in to match the one replaced by Geico.

Where did you put your amp? I have a powered sub that was given to me that I'd like to use, about the size of a good sized amp. I haven't really been able to come up with a decent place to mount it. I'd really like to use it as the stereo could use some help, especially since I just removed the windblocker/speakers to make way for the roll bar.

BTW, where in Pittsburgh are you?

J3cubrc

25th June 2016, 22:04

Where did you put your amp? I have a powered sub that was given to me that I'd like to use, about the size of a good sized amp. I haven't really been able to come up with a decent place to mount it. I'd really like to use it as the stereo could use some help, especially since I just removed the windblocker/speakers to make way for the roll bar.

BTW, where in Pittsburgh are you?

I haven't completely settled on that yet. It's mounted now through the carpet and onto the masonite panel. I want to move it to where the spare tire is soon. i'd post a pick but it looks like spaghetti at the moment. There is a lot of space next to the gas tank but my amp won't fit there. Sounds great though. Good luck with it.

Mutt

25th June 2016, 22:48

So after a post in the what did you do to your NA today section I followed a post by Maneki_Neko about reconditioning leather, I took a bottle of Lexol and a rubber glove to my SE.. and oh man did she drink it up... But I do have softer more supple seats...

zefram47

26th June 2016, 00:05

Only problem is, I still have a small gurgling sound as she is cooling down (from the front of the engine?) which I can't figure out. Perhaps an air bubble?:dunno: Anyone else have this issue?
Wolfgang

If the noise sounds like a coffee percolator near the overflow tank, did you replace the radiator cap? There's a valve in the cap that allows coolant to flow in and out of the overflow and apparently if it's bad, it can sound like a percolator when hot. Mine did it when my coolant temps went upwards of 220F before replacing my radiator, cap, hoses, and thermostat. I haven't heard it again since.

Unusualdesigner

26th June 2016, 00:12

Replaced coil pack and CAS in new-to-me '99 I picked up last week. PO had A misfire condition and it resulted in the dreaded P0420 code.

New CAT next week. Radiator is getting changed as well, turning a nice olive drab color.

swsman

26th June 2016, 12:00

Since I picked it up in August last year, it has been driven. A lot.
Close to 10k miles and it is not even my daily - 3500 mile Wisconsin trip was a hoot.

Soon, as I keep telling myself, it will need some TLC:

Phase 1 (2016)

new radiator
water pump
timing belt
hoses
new rotors
new pads
new brake lines
stickier summer tires

Phase 2 (2017)

suspension related work

Phase 3 (2017-2018)

acquiring a spare engine and a hard top (would like to do away with soft top permanently)

daender

26th June 2016, 13:58

It was technically yesterday but I took pops around in the Miata to go look for an under-3k$ light truck and happened across a small car show. I ended up parking next to a NA6C that was painted purple by the PO. Hopefully I'll see it at Panic Motorsports and/or the next autocross soon!

https://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--0VIXlVjk--/c_scale,fl_progressive,q_80,w_800/td2w8jepknnr3fiszmlt.png
https://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--_UhDmeU0--/c_scale,fl_progressive,q_80,w_800/us4ir3mzjxnv8nd4mipi.png

Oddly coincidental, both our Miatas have recently-released SC plates starting with MGY!

zellers88

26th June 2016, 14:21

Made up a new undertray out of 1/8" ABS. Also making a lower radiator shroud and side panels.

http://i.imgur.com/20hUOP0.jpg

doane2u

26th June 2016, 17:34

Are you going off road with it?

zellers88

26th June 2016, 18:18

Are you going off road with it?

Not on purpose :rofl:. I think I've been reading too many aero threads. Flat bottom = faster.

Hurt

26th June 2016, 18:33

Made up a new undertray out of 1/8" ABS. Also making a lower radiator shroud and side panels.

http://i.imgur.com/20hUOP0.jpg

Are you going to offer the lower shroud and side panels? Might make a nice sideline business if they are nice.

thecause17

26th June 2016, 19:23

Not on purpose :rofl:. I think I've been reading too many aero threads. Flat bottom = faster.

You could always go the golf ball route.

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/372842_x800.jpg

My MKV TDi had the golf ball treatment under most of the underbody and floor pans. Apparently VW saw enough aero benefit to incorporate it into their body design.

figmk5

26th June 2016, 20:13

Completed an HID retrofit on my NB1 and painted the lamp housings black. A very nice lighting upgrade for just $120 following directions in a very helpful thread on this board!

https://i.imgur.com/eNOz9wYh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tCKBaNZh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9TyNtDZh.jpg

zellers88

26th June 2016, 20:17

Are you going to offer the lower shroud and side panels? Might make a nice sideline business if they are nice.

Nah, I wish I had the time to do that but I think if I spent any more time on the Miata my fiance might kill me.

You could always go the golf ball route.

I remember seeing that on Mythbusters a long time ago. Little bit easier for for VW to implement it than me in my garage though :sad:

thecause17

26th June 2016, 21:01

I remember seeing that on Mythbusters a long time ago. Little bit easier for for VW to implement it than me in my garage though :sad:

Yeah I remember that episode. Yes, definitely wouldn't be super easy, but it could probably be done with a jig, some heat and a press. IIRC, Mythbusters covered that car in clay and carved them out.

SVpokey

26th June 2016, 21:33

Made up a new undertray out of 1/8" ABS. Also making a lower radiator shroud and side panels.

http://i.imgur.com/20hUOP0.jpgOoooooh... That's pretty.

Where do you get a big sheet of ABS from?

SVpokey

26th June 2016, 21:42

Today the wife and I went for a drive. We added two pics to our Moss Motoring Challenge collection. One with NH Motor Speedway, and one with a 1933 Alfa Romeo. We could have gotten a lot more, but its so hard to stop driving this thing, unless its for ice cream.

zefram47

26th June 2016, 22:46

Technically yesterday, but I did an autocross event with the local Rocky Mountain Region Porsche Club of America. There was one other (NC) Miata, but fun was had by all in attendance. I'm still running the all-season tires my car came with, though after all the drifting I wound up doing, they'll be changed sooner than I'd expected. I pushed the car harder than I have in the Time Attack events I've done so far and learned a lot while managing to drop about 4-5 seconds from the first to the last run of the day. As I wound up overdriving the car a bit in search of more speed, I wound up in a fit of giggles as it was some of the most fun I've ever had in a car, getting the rear end out and somehow getting faster while doing so. This was the final run of the day, and I started applying some of what I'd learned...fewer drifts and smoothing it out a bit wound up dropping another 0.2s from my previous fastest time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAxbD4Ti1OU

PAxbD4Ti1OU

figmk5

27th June 2016, 00:02

Technically yesterday, but I did an autocross event with the local Rocky Mountain Region Porsche Club of America. There was one other (NC) Miata, but fun was had by all in attendance. I'm still running the all-season tires my car came with, though after all the drifting I wound up doing, they'll be changed sooner than I'd expected. I pushed the car harder than I have in the Time Attack events I've done so far and learned a lot while managing to drop about 4-5 seconds from the first to the last run of the day. As I wound up overdriving the car a bit in search of more speed, I wound up in a fit of giggles as it was some of the most fun I've ever had in a car, getting the rear end out and somehow getting faster while doing so. This was the final run of the day, and I started applying some of what I'd learned...fewer drifts and smoothing it out a bit wound up dropping another 0.2s from my previous fastest time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAxbD4Ti1OU

PAxbD4Ti1OU

This looks like so much fun! I've tracked at that location with the local BMW club and it was the most fun I've ever had. Is there a Miata specific club locally for track events like this?

zellers88

27th June 2016, 06:01

Ooooooh... That's pretty.

Where do you get a big sheet of ABS from?

Found a local place, Regal Plastics, that distributes all sorts of plastic sheeting. It was about $50 for a whole 4'x8' sheet.

WolfgangK

27th June 2016, 08:39

Sometimes it takes a bit to remove that last bit of air out of the system. THIS FUNNEL KIT (https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY) allows you to run the car with the radiator cap off and let it burp itself just sitting on your driveway.

Thanks for the suggestion! Will have to look into it. Today, after a drive yesterday, the top radiator hose was collapsed! :realmad: I opened the cap, and air was sucked in, at which point it regained its round shape. I do not understand this. Maybe someone has a sugestion? Will the funnel kit help?
Thanks in advance
Wolfgang

Hurt

27th June 2016, 10:54

The Lisle funnel kit is a must have item. Most modern cars have the top of the radiator lower than the top of the engine. Ramps are a needed item as well.

Unusualdesigner

27th June 2016, 11:42

Thanks for the suggestion! Will have to look into it. Today, after a drive yesterday, the top radiator hose was collapsed! :realmad: I opened the cap, and air was sucked in, at which point it regained its round shape. I do not understand this. Maybe someone has a sugestion? Will the funnel kit help?
Thanks in advance
Wolfgang

Two possibilities:
Blocked return hose or reservoir
Bad or wrong radiator cap.

There is only one path -unless you have a leak- for coolant to get back in.

Racing_Green

27th June 2016, 11:49

Did this on Saturday and will get pics of clay bar, swirl-ex job yesterday. Need to wax it too. Loving my new ASA AR-1s. Love the spoke look and lip.

Racing_Green

27th June 2016, 11:50

post 2

doane2u

27th June 2016, 11:50

Not on purpose :rofl:. I think I've been reading too many aero threads. Flat bottom = faster.

Ahh.. OK. And, how about heat? Will it still get enough cooling?

JonK67

27th June 2016, 12:35

Ahh.. OK. And, how about heat? Will it still get enough cooling?

His ABS pan is not much different than the stock plastic pan so it should not affect engine bay temps. There are foam blocks between the radiator bottom and the stock tray to force air through the radiator vs around.
I'll have to see if there's a local plastic place near me (can you heat and bend it?), it's this or an aluminum tray as my original plastic one is beat up and torn at most mounting points.

zefram47

27th June 2016, 13:30

This looks like so much fun! I've tracked at that location with the local BMW club and it was the most fun I've ever had. Is there a Miata specific club locally for track events like this?

To my knowledge, the local Miata club doesn't hold their own autocross events. They do list other local club's events on the calendar, such as the PCA events. Once my roll bar comes in, I can't wait to start doing track events too.

WolfgangK

27th June 2016, 15:02

Two possibilities:
Blocked return hose or reservoir
Bad or wrong radiator cap.

There is only one path -unless you have a leak- for coolant to get back in.

Hmmm.... :ohno: Same cap I was using with the old radiator and that was just a few weeks old. Nice locking Stant - brand new!
I'll have to check the overflow tank to see if anything is blocking the out/in flow area. Thanks.
Wolfgang

Unusualdesigner

27th June 2016, 15:23

Hmmm.... :ohno: Same cap I was using with the old radiator and that was just a few weeks old. Nice locking Stant - brand new!
I'll have to check the overflow tank to see if anything is blocking the out/in flow area. Thanks.
Wolfgang

Just in case, I recently got ONE OF THESE (https://www.amazon.com/PT-Auto-Warehouse-R148-Radiator/dp/B00NWT69Z6)and it works as good as a Mazda one.

zellers88

27th June 2016, 16:01

His ABS pan is not much different than the stock plastic pan so it should not affect engine bay temps. There are foam blocks between the radiator bottom and the stock tray to force air through the radiator vs around.
I'll have to see if there's a local plastic place near me (can you heat and bend it?), it's this or an aluminum tray as my original plastic one is beat up and torn at most mounting points.

Yup, shouldn't really affect cooling. Mine doesn't have those foam blocks (didn't even know they existed). I made another small panel that connects where the front of the OEM undertray does and to the AC fan bottom bolts to fill that gap.

I was able to heat it and bend it using my butane soldering iron with a torch tip. Clamped it between two boards to bend it.

I don't believe the temps will be high enough to melt it but if they are then I'll switch over to aluminum. I would definitely do aluminum further back where there is a potential for exhaust heat though.

Chris GTO TT

27th June 2016, 16:47

The reality is something like this is actually better for cooling as it helps to force air to flow through the engine bay in the way it's designed. If you remove the under tray air is much more likely to become turbulent in the engine bay and not exit out the back like it's supposed to.

mysd455

27th June 2016, 19:19

My as purchased non running car with the addition of a timing belt not only starts, but idles pretty smooth at 8/900 rpms. Makes no funny sounds and leaks nothing Next step is to drive it around the block but 1st I want to figure out why the ABS light is on.

SVpokey

28th June 2016, 00:49

Today I let this fine gentleman point all my wheels in the same direction. He did a good job too.

Between the two of us, we came up with enough ballast to equal my body weight (let's just say I add slightly more than 10% to the Miata). We used the Flyin' Miata alignment specs. With the new tires and now the alignment, this car really hooks up. It shoots through corners that I used to drift through.

Hurt

28th June 2016, 11:08

Drove to the Mazda dealership and bought a new thermostat. OEM 192f version. I'd been running a 180f stat and couldn't really see all that much difference in operating temperature. I never got hot enough to worry some people with the OEM stat (199-203), but I'm still kind of old school. Everyone says my temperature was normal for Florida. It's been running at those temps for years in the hot part of our 10 month summers. Guess I'll stop agonizing over it and march on. I did add some water wetter to the system. With the 180, operating temps were 196-199. The 180 stat was the Stant Wide Mouth, but the opening in the plate was still smaller than the OEM.

Marksnb

28th June 2016, 11:40

Made up a new undertray out of 1/8" ABS. Also making a lower radiator shroud and side panels.

http://i.imgur.com/20hUOP0.jpg

Could we see some installed pics?

Unusualdesigner

28th June 2016, 11:55

Drove to the Mazda dealership and bought a new thermostat. OEM 192f version. I'd been running a 180f stat and couldn't really see all that much difference in operating temperature. I never got hot enough to worry some people with the OEM stat (199-203), but I'm still kind of old school. Everyone says my temperature was normal for Florida. It's been running at those temps for years in the hot part of our 10 month summers. Guess I'll stop agonizing over it and march on. I did add some water wetter to the system. With the 180, operating temps were 196-199. The 180 stat was the Stant Wide Mouth, but the opening in the plate was still smaller than the OEM.

I run the OEM thermostats here in Sunny So California [today's forecast 102°] and seldom go over 208-210° even in stop/go traffic. Once running at speed temps drop to ~193-194°

I do run a 70% water / 30% OEM spec [blue] coolant, though. -better heat transfer.

zellers88

28th June 2016, 12:41

Could we see some installed pics?

Crappy picture but it's the only other one I took this weekend.

http://i.imgur.com/tRcCJvE.jpg

chiefmg

28th June 2016, 19:25

Autocrossed on Sunday. Washed her today and swapped out the Cobalt header for a Mazdaspeed one. Added at least 5 hp (it has the tag and everything!).

Hurt

28th June 2016, 19:31

Crappy picture but it's the only other one I took this weekend.

http://i.imgur.com/tRcCJvE.jpg

Beautiful job. You're a real craftsman.

zellers88

28th June 2016, 20:18

Beautiful job. You're a real craftsman.

Thanks! I can't wait to move to a house with a bigger garage so I can get a welder and have some real fun :cool:

doane2u

29th June 2016, 00:36

My right top latch was not engaging and after trying one repair in the garage that I couldn't get to work that well and then looking at another I came up with my own solution that is easier and doesn't involve taking the assembly apart and trying to reassemble it. I ended up repairing both latches so that they will not require maintenance again.

You can see the solution here. (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=613908)

http://doanehoag.com/Forums/Cars/Miata/Alterations/Latch%20front%20.jpg

Warhammer

29th June 2016, 01:28

My right top latch was not engaging and after trying one repair in the garage that I couldn't get to work that well and then looking at another I came up with my own solution that is easier and doesn't involve taking the assembly apart and trying to reassemble it. I ended up repairing both latches so that they will not require maintenance again.

You can see the solution here. (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=613908)

http://doanehoag.com/Forums/Cars/Miata/Alterations/Latch%20front%20.jpg

I did this are repair a year or so ago. One latch loosened up a bit, but I just had to back the screw out a tad to fix it again. It's a good, easy fix.

QuietDan

29th June 2016, 07:53

Still have the 30 day temp tags on my new to me white 2004 Miata NB. Spouse Trish and I took it to Karen's Kustard for a sundae. Two spoons.

Davedave

29th June 2016, 08:10

Lifted my new-to-me 10AE onto jack stands in prep for transmission and differential fluid changes. I read several resources about what to expect and one detailed how to remove the belly pan under the midsection of the car, under the transmission. My car only has a short pan forward of the forward cross member in front of the engine sump. Am I missing a pan?

Unusualdesigner

29th June 2016, 09:48

Still have the 30 day temp tags on my new to me white 2004 Miata NB. Spouse Trish and I took it to Karen's Kustard for a sundae. Two spoons.

:welcome:

5Miata10

29th June 2016, 09:52

No, there is just one pan on the 99.

My car only has a short pan forward of the forward cross member in front of the engine sump. Am I missing a pan?

JonK67

29th June 2016, 10:19

Still have the 30 day temp tags on my new to me white 2004 Miata NB. Spouse Trish and I took it to Karen's Kustard for a sundae. Two spoons.

Hey Dan, I read this and thought 'could that be Karin's Kustard on Lowry?', sure enough. I'm in Smyrna also with an '01 and '02 at the moment. Belong to the Music City Miata club, they're an active fun group if you and the Mrs are into adventure. I'll watch for a white NB, my '02 is black with a tan top. May see you at Karin's with this heat. Jon

pfk1106

29th June 2016, 10:35

Dave, my 2001 only has one pan too. I believe the 2nd pan is a chassis stiffener used on the "speeds".

Davedave

29th June 2016, 11:49

Dave, my 2001 only has one pan too. I believe the 2nd pan is a chassis stiffener used on the "speeds".Thank you and also 5Miata10.

Marshalls newer ride

29th June 2016, 11:58

Pushed mine in the garage, it quit on me and won't start.:realmad:

doane2u

29th June 2016, 15:35

I just got a mild alignment from Barry Hartzel Automotive. This guy is really good. Took it up a known twistie road and the difference is pretty amazing :thumbs:

Stock suspension he did -1 front and -1.5 rear with a very small front toe in of 1/6"

If you're in the Monterey, CA area, this is the guy to go to. Former track driver, numerous wins, really knows his Miatas and yet he is reasonably priced, actually less than some other regular mechanics.

Marksnb

29th June 2016, 17:30

Thanks! I can't wait to move to a house with a bigger garage so I can get a welder and have some real fun :cool:

Awesome! Thanks for the pic. That looks good man. Wish I could make one. My OEM belly pan is trash and a pain in the ass when it comes to do an oil change....

cdmcali

29th June 2016, 17:45

Installed the CSF Radiator in my 01 LS. Here is a link to the radiator I got http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-1518.html

Fits great with the stock fans. Only had to do a few small modifications and switch out the screws for the fans.

Waltzy23

29th June 2016, 17:53

Painted the calipers black and put a mazdaspeed decal on the fronts. I know, I know. The car needs more lowness :)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k177/CWaltzey/20160626_182209.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/CWaltzey/media/20160626_182209.jpg.html)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k177/CWaltzey/20160626_180019.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/CWaltzey/media/20160626_180019.jpg.html)

zellers88

29th June 2016, 19:07

Another update. Finally got the small side panels just about done. Waiting on panhead torx bolts to make the top look a little better. The part in the middle bolts to the tab that I believe was for the AC condenser.

http://i.imgur.com/0lZgDBO.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/LCjDEeC.jpg

Davedave

29th June 2016, 21:38

Drained and refilled tranny and differential. Not difficult but tedious. The hand pump I used moved about 5 cc a pump so about 380 pumps for 2 qts of XT-M5-QS. Glad I won't be doing that again for a while.

shoult

29th June 2016, 21:52

Drained and refilled tranny and differential. Not difficult but tedious. The hand pump I used moved about 5 cc a pump so about 380 pumps for 2 qts of XT-M5-QS. Glad I won't be doing that again for a while.

I believe that the 10AE has a six speed so next time fill it from the top. It's MUCH easier. You still need to remove the fill plug to check the filled level, but pouring the lube in from the top using a funnel is MUCH easier than pumping it up.

Warhammer

29th June 2016, 23:47

I got tired of waiting for the right time to upgrade my wheels and decided to paint the OEM wheels. I got two done today, and I'll ge the other two on Friday.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/rlkeely/20160629_190529_zpsbp3h1g3g.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rlkeely/media/20160629_190529_zpsbp3h1g3g.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/rlkeely/20160629_182638_zps5xof4ckz.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rlkeely/media/20160629_182638_zps5xof4ckz.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/rlkeely/20160629_190517_zpsqqgoaj30.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rlkeely/media/20160629_190517_zpsqqgoaj30.jpg.html)

While I was at it, it seemed like the right time to go ahead and pretty up the brake calipers as well. I thought red calipers with red wheels might be overkill, so I went with gloss black.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/rlkeely/20160629_182630_zpstetks8vw.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rlkeely/media/20160629_182630_zpstetks8vw.jpg.html)

I'll post pics on Friday with the wheels reinstalled.

boomercarguy

30th June 2016, 07:40

Drained and refilled tranny and differential. Not difficult but tedious. The hand pump I used moved about 5 cc a pump so about 380 pumps for 2 qts of XT-M5-QS. Glad I won't be doing that again for a while.

There are several sizes of hand pumps available from auto parts stores and from Amazon which come in different sizes (pump more than 5cc/pump and cost less than $10. They fit different size bottles and have extensions to fit deep inside gallon jugs if you want to transfer your quart bottles into them. I use these for everything from manual tranny lube to ATF to power steering fluids (pump out of the reservoir) for all of my cars.
For my 5-speed NB, I use one without the bottle to pump out the turret lube which is so much easier and neater than the turkey baster or regular hand suction pump.

jrmrbcax

30th June 2016, 08:13

Cut my leg open at work yesterday, needed 12 stitches and a leg brace.. Can't drive my NB for 2 weeks :(

Davedave

30th June 2016, 08:20

I believe that the 10AE has a six speed so next time fill it from the top. It's MUCH easier. You still need to remove the fill plug to check the filled level, but pouring the lube in from the top using a funnel is MUCH easier than pumping it up.I considered this but I was working alone and thought it would make a huge mess: A.) if the hose came out of the tranny fill hole in process and B.) if it topped off full and overflowed if it did take less than 2 full quarts to fill.

There are several sizes of hand pumps available from auto parts stores and from Amazon which come in different sizes (pump more than 5cc/pump and cost less than $10. They fit different size bottles and have extensions to fit deep inside gallon jugs if you want to transfer your quart bottles into them. I use these for everything from manual tranny lube to ATF to power steering fluids (pump out of the reservoir) for all of my cars.
For my 5-speed NB, I use one without the bottle to pump out the turret lube which is so much easier and neater than the turkey baster or regular hand suction pump.Yes, live and learn. I only had the car lifted to the bottom adjustment of my jack stands and knew the working space was vertically limited to the height of a pumper that fits inside a quart bottle. I couldn't use the other pump I have that does not fit down inside the small opening of a quart bottle so I bought a new one without thinking how little volume a stroke moved only how compact in height it was. Next time.....lift higher or get a helper from above.

Enthuz

30th June 2016, 08:30

I believe that the 10AE has a six speed so next time fill it from the top. It's MUCH easier. You still need to remove the fill plug to check the filled level, but pouring the lube in from the top using a funnel is MUCH easier than pumping it up.

With either a 5sp or 6sp, may I suggest a 3 or 4 ft. plastic hose, appx. 1/2" OD (available in the plumbing dept. of most hardware stores) slid over a plastic funnel, inserted through the engine compartment to the trans filler opening. No pumping, no mess. No need to remove center console.

shoult

30th June 2016, 09:23

I considered this but I was working alone and thought it would make a huge mess: A.) if the hose came out of the tranny fill hole in process and B.) if it topped off full and overflowed if it did take less than 2 full quarts to fill.

No, I don't mean using a hose into the filler hole from the top. With the 6 speed you can fill it through the turret. Just remove the console (5 phillips head screws), remove the two shifter boots (7 10mm bolts), pull the stick out of the turret and stick a funnel in the turret. Leave the drain pan under the tranny while filling. This way you also get to inspect the shifter boots which are most likely ready to be replaced as well. I've only ever gotten 30K out of mine.

This does NOT work on a 5 spd.

Unusualdesigner

30th June 2016, 09:37

Cut my leg open at work yesterday, needed 12 stitches and a leg brace.. Can't drive my NB for 2 weeks :(

Bummer!

Hope you heal fast.

m3mackenzie

30th June 2016, 09:38

Love the bronze rims. They are on my short list.

Painted the calipers black and put a mazdaspeed decal on the fronts. I know, I know. The car needs more lowness :)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k177/CWaltzey/20160626_182209.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/CWaltzey/media/20160626_182209.jpg.html)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k177/CWaltzey/20160626_180019.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/CWaltzey/media/20160626_180019.jpg.html)

Unusualdesigner

30th June 2016, 09:42

With either a 5sp or 6sp, may I suggest a 3 or 4 ft. plastic hose, appx. 1/2" OD (available in the plumbing dept. of most hardware stores) slid over a plastic funnel, inserted through the engine compartment to the trans filler opening. No pumping, no mess. No need to remove center console.

I made a filling adapter by using a 1/2" "street elbow" and a hose barb.

I screw it into the plug hose, attach the hose from the funnel to it and pour the fluid from the top. Once I have put in the required amount I go under and undo the adapter while keeping a pan under to catch any excess. Put plug back in, snug it to specified torque and clean up. Done. ;)

MX-5inAR

30th June 2016, 09:46

I wanted to take my front passenger wheel off to put some grease on the clutch slave cylinder. Found the lug nuts were on so tight I couldn't get them off with the tools in the trunk. Used a breaker bar to get them loose. After the grease job I broke all the lug nuts loose and tightened them to the proper spec with a torque wrench. Verified I can now get them off with the trunk tools. Good to know in case I get a flat and choose not to use roadside assistance.

Unusualdesigner

30th June 2016, 09:54

I wanted to take my front passenger wheel off to put some grease on the clutch slave cylinder. Found the lug nuts were on so tight I couldn't get them off with the tools in the trunk.

The "trunk tools" in just about any car are pretty much for looks, IMO. A inexpensive 1/2", 18" long Harbor Freight breaker bar and the right size deep socket [avoids use of a extension] stashed in the trunk is cheap insurance that you'll be able to undo a lug nut torqued to at least 85 Ft/Lb.

I keep one such in the spare tire well wrapped in a couple of shop towels.

The one that I have an issue with is the one for the jack. There just isn't enough leverage there to easily lift the car. -working on a solution for it.

The BEST spare tire changing items are a AAA card and a cell phone. :D

figmk5

30th June 2016, 10:55

http://i.imgur.com/C3pM2DS.jpg

Just delivered: factory style black canvas top with zippered glass window (no defrost). Looking forward to tearing the old top off!

Spanner

30th June 2016, 11:03

FYI, Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner 2X is on sale at AutoZone buy 1 get 1 for $8.99. That's cheaper than at Wally World if you want 2.

SoonerMiata02

30th June 2016, 11:43

Saw that new muffler is "Out For Delivery" so took the old one off.

MX-5inAR

30th June 2016, 12:57

The "trunk tools" in just about any car are pretty much for looks, IMO. A inexpensive 1/2", 18" long Harbor Freight breaker bar and the right size deep socket [avoids use of a extension] stashed in the trunk is cheap insurance that you'll be able to undo a lug nut torqued to at least 85 Ft/Lb.

I keep one such in the spare tire well wrapped in a couple of shop towels.

The one that I have an issue with is the one for the jack. There just isn't enough leverage there to easily lift the car. -working on a solution for it.

The BEST spare tire changing items are a AAA card and a cell phone. :D

Thinking hard about doing that (breaker bar in trunk). I'm not handy and had to borrow everything from my brother. Might as well pick up my own and stash it in the trunk.

I'm all about roadside assistance though. I have it through my auto insurance as well as from the place I got my tires! Like I said, I'm not handy at all. :)

Sanchinguy

30th June 2016, 14:15

Washed and detailed it. A couple weeks of dry dusty weather and lots of top down driving got it quite dirty.

thecause17

30th June 2016, 14:37

The "trunk tools" in just about any car are pretty much for looks, IMO. A inexpensive 1/2", 18" long Harbor Freight breaker bar and the right size deep socket [avoids use of a extension] stashed in the trunk is cheap insurance that you'll be able to undo a lug nut torqued to at least 85 Ft/Lb.

I keep one such in the spare tire well wrapped in a couple of shop towels.

:D

Totally agree. The first time I lifted the carpet in my car, I almost laughed when I saw the lug wrench they provide. In my Jeep I have an entire "gear bag" which includes a lot of items such as tow straps, jumper cables, extra serpentine belt, hand tools, and a better 4-way tire wrench for the same reason. Lugs nuts on that are the kind with a cover on them...if it happens to come off and you don't have the next size down on hand, the oem wrench will not get it off.

Haven't gotten around to outfitting the NB with much yet, but I do need to get on that.

jrmrbcax

30th June 2016, 16:00

Bummer!

Hope you heal fast.

Thank you!

Sanchinguy

30th June 2016, 16:36

BTW! I bought a cheap garden sprayer and filled it with purified water from our homes RO system and sprayed the car down with it after rinsing it with the the hose. Some careful drying with a microfiber towel and voila, no hard water spots from our crappy well water. Worth a try...

Spanner

30th June 2016, 18:26

Filled the tank with Techron fuel system cleaner & premium gas, repaired a bullseye crack in the windshield, replaced the brake bleeder valve caps, and adjusted the passenger-side door block so the latch would stop binding.

Then drove it :D

Kmier

30th June 2016, 18:57

BTW! I bought a cheap garden sprayer and filled it with purified water from our homes RO system and sprayed the car down with it after rinsing it with the the hose. Some careful drying with a microfiber towel and voila, no hard water spots from our crappy well water. Worth a try...

I, too, have 'hard' water. I find that if I use a small, soft squeegee to pull off most of the tap water on the upper surfaces after washing, I can use a large soft towel to finish drying it. No spots that way.

doane2u

30th June 2016, 19:16

Try adding a bit of Calgon water softener to your bucket, or you can use dishwashing rinse liquid. :thumbs:

QuietDan

1st July 2016, 00:24

Hey Dan, I read this and thought 'could that be Karin's Kustard on Lowry?', sure enough. I'm in Smyrna also with an '01 and '02 at the moment. Belong to the Music City Miata club, they're an active fun group if you and the Mrs are into adventure. I'll watch for a white NB, my '02 is black with a tan top. May see you at Karin's with this heat. Jon

Hi! I'll keep my eyes peeled! It's a small world! :thumbs:

QuietDan

1st July 2016, 00:31

:welcome:

Thank you very much! Already getting useful tips and connections.:thumbs:

cwosigns

1st July 2016, 00:37

Bought new top latches from Avondale Mazda (via Amazon) and replaced them. The top closes so much easier, and actually latches. My previous set had to be fiddled with to close, and they would open without ever having to press the release button.

QuietDan

1st July 2016, 00:51

Loaded Video Camera Bag and Tripod in trunk for use at meeting and it all fit fine.

After meeting, drove 40 miles to Dunn Motors in Hendersonville to pick up the signed over previous title so I can transfer my plates and register "Scout."

Stayed glued to the road to 100 for a short bit, though I did have to take off my ball cap. Sunburn and Miata Hair.

Left front speaker was working! Intermittently. Thought it was blown, might just be loose connections, no idea where. Others experience this?

Hurt

1st July 2016, 06:15

Hey Dan, I read this and thought 'could that be Karin's Kustard on Lowry?', sure enough. I'm in Smyrna also with an '01 and '02 at the moment. Belong to the Music City Miata club, they're an active fun group if you and the Mrs are into adventure. I'll watch for a white NB, my '02 is black with a tan top. May see you at Karin's with this heat. Jon

More fun to run out to Hendersonville to Texas Road House and have a couple of Long Island Iced Teas.

doane2u

1st July 2016, 09:33

Bought new top latches from Avondale Mazda (via Amazon) and replaced them. The top closes so much easier, and actually latches. My previous set had to be fiddled with to close, and they would open without ever having to press the release button.

Wish you had seen this thread, you could have saved a few hundred dollars.. really not that difficult to permanently fix them. click here (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=613908)

Slartidbartfast

1st July 2016, 10:54

The "trunk tools" in just about any car are pretty much for looks, IMO. A inexpensive 1/2", 18" long Harbor Freight breaker bar and the right size deep socket [avoids use of a extension] stashed in the trunk is cheap insurance that you'll be able to undo a lug nut torqued to at least 85 Ft/Lb.

I keep one such in the spare tire well wrapped in a couple of shop towels.

The one that I have an issue with is the one for the jack. There just isn't enough leverage there to easily lift the car. -working on a solution for it.

The BEST spare tire changing items are a AAA card and a cell phone. :D

The issue with removing wheels using trunk tools is not usually the fault of the tools but the ham-fisted idiots installing lug nuts with an air gun and ZERO consideration for the recommended torque.

Note that swapping wheels by the side of the road is usually a worse option than plugging the hole and reinflating with a 12V compressor. I have never used a space-saver spare wheel on any vehicle for this reason - and I have fixed flats in about the same time or less than it would take to swap a wheel.

SoonerMiata02

1st July 2016, 10:55

I don't think you would be disappointed with either of them. I just like the RS better and I like the replaceable baffle, nice feature.

When removing your old one, use a lot of KY jelly on the rubber hangers; it really helps in getting them off (no pun intended :rolleyes:) and getting them back on (up :rolleyes:) again.

Let us know what you think if you get it.Just finished putting it on. In the garage it sounds really good. Not loud. Just deeper and smooth. Road test will have to wait. It's raining.

Unusualdesigner

1st July 2016, 11:12

The issue with removing wheels using trunk tools is not usually the fault of the tools but the ham-fisted idiots installing lug nuts with an air gun and ZERO consideration for the recommended torque.

Note that swapping wheels by the side of the road is usually a worse option than plugging the hole and reinflating with a 12V compressor. I have never used a space-saver spare wheel on any vehicle for this reason - and I have fixed flats in about the same time or less than it would take to swap a wheel.

Agree on grease monkeys over tightening lug nuts but a patch kit and compressor would have been just excess ballast when I ran over a softball sized rock, blew the sidewall and bent a rim. The lack of cell coverage in that canyon would have meant a long walk to either get a signal or find a landlines phone.

No spare or unable to change tire by side of the road and I'd been screwed.

bcredeur97

1st July 2016, 11:40

Yesterday I flushed coolant, changed engine oil. Then I had a few more hours so I changed the differential and transmission oil. And then to top it off I thought I would try out the "pool noodle" mod so I did that.

Yay for preventative maintenance. I'm surprised how easy these car's are to work on, I didn't even look for a manual or anything. I just researched what fluids people put in their cars, grabbed some for myself and did it all yesterday one at a time. Only thing I looked for was torque specs, all of which is super easy to find online.

I've driven my NB about 1000 miles so far, hopefully the next many thousand are even better :D

zellers88

1st July 2016, 11:59

Got the side panels trimmed for my Jass hardtop side latches. Hardtop hopefully getting painted tomorrow.

CountBuggula

1st July 2016, 14:05

Yesterday while driving to work I had to go over a road that was undergoing heavy maintenance and was covered in gravel. As soon as I went to turn off the road I realized my power steering was gone. Ugh! My plastic under engine tray/splash guard is gone so I'm sure a rock flew into the bay and got stuck in the belt, popping it off (fortunately the accessory belt was the only belt I lost).

So I got off work early to see if I could get a new belt put on at my local shop so I didn't have to drive home without power steering. Apparently they're understaffed at the moment, crazy busy, and couldn't slip me in (even for a simple belt install!) for two more days. No thanks.

I decided to try the local Mazda dealership, which happened to be just a few blocks away. The service guys say that they're busy, but they think they can squeeze me in. So they take a look at it, get me all entered into their system, and only then realize they don't have the part in stock and would have to get one from clear across town. Oh, and they were going to charge me $50 plus labor.

Uhhh...no thanks I'll grab one from the parts store for $15 and install it myself. I was just trying to save myself the annoyance of driving across town without power steering. Luckily these cars aren't super difficult to drive when it goes out, it just takes a lot of effort. I couldn't believe I couldn't find someone to just quickly take care of it though.

Also today ordered a new aluminum tray (http://lrbspeed.com/product/nb-miata-aluminum-under-tray/) to protect my engine. Not gonna let that happen again. Figured it didn't cost THAT much more than sourcing a used plastic one and it'll last a lot longer than they do.

Rob01

1st July 2016, 14:21

Today I finished insulating the "cold" air box the previous owner installed along with a Monster flow intake. The filter had disintegrated and I put together a way to use a filter from the parts store. A week or so ago I insulated the airbox with expanded polystyrene board, aluminum duct tape, and pipe insulation to seal the top of the box and around where the tube enters. Today I made a template of cardboard to close off the airbox completely from the engine bay. Then I used the template to cut a piece of XPS board to fit and laminated it between aluminum flashing. I then cut and fit pipe insulation to surround the fabricated piece. It wedges in rather snuggly and looked like a fairly good seal.

Before insulating the airbox the intake air temperature stayed around 140* F. After the first round of insulation the temps were in the 120's. After today's fabrication I saw 102 in traffic and the 90's on the interstate. There are still some gaps to fill, and I'm going to make a duct to go from the the grill to the airbox, but I'm pretty happy with the morning's work. :D

-Rob.

Unusualdesigner

1st July 2016, 15:00

^^
Just an observation: to be really effective the insulation should be on the outside of the metal box.

Hurt

1st July 2016, 15:17

I made a filling adapter by using a 1/2" "street elbow" and a hose barb.

I screw it into the plug hose, attach the hose from the funnel to it and pour the fluid from the top. Once I have put in the required amount I go under and undo the adapter while keeping a pan under to catch any excess. Put plug back in, snug it to specified torque and clean up. Done. ;)

Made one of these myself today. I thought it was the best idea that I've seen for filling the transmission. It's so simple as to be unbelievable. Thanks for sharing it.

thecause17

1st July 2016, 15:27

Swapped out my stock plastic shift knob for a Voodoo.
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii278/thecause17/voodoo.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/user/thecause17/media/voodoo.jpg.html)

My roll bar is supposed to be delivered tomorrow so I started prepping for the installation today by stripping the interior. Going to clean up the area before tomorrow. Also noticed that the drains are pretty gunked up so I'm going to clean those out as well. It'll also be a good time to clean the carpets really well before the seats go back in.
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii278/thecause17/nbstripped.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/user/thecause17/media/nbstripped.jpg.html)

Jmacmaz

1st July 2016, 15:30

Spent some time diagnosing a brutal misfire. Turns out 2 and 3 weren't firing, and a coworker loaned me spare coil to help troubleshoot. Hooked up the coil for cylinders 2 and 3, purred like a kitten. And I'm not that upset, feels good to work on a car, figure stuff out and fix it yourself. Next is a trip into town to get a replacement

Unusualdesigner

1st July 2016, 18:59

Made one of these myself today. I thought it was the best idea that I've seen for filling the transmission. It's so simple as to be unbelievable. Thanks for sharing it.
You're welcome!

Now you know how I earned my "nickname".... ;)

thecause17

1st July 2016, 19:15

Drains are clean.
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii278/thecause17/drain.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/user/thecause17/media/drain.jpg.html)

Warhammer

1st July 2016, 19:36

Remounted the newly painted passenger side wheels.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/rlkeely/20160701_114709_zpslpe62fkb.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rlkeely/media/20160701_114709_zpslpe62fkb.jpg.html)

The other two wheels are currently drying with the final coat of clear. I'll remount them Sunday or Monday.

I'm going to have to repainted the side mirrors. The Plastidip isn't holding up well. I'll probably take the apart and paint them with the same red as the wheels.

desert red

1st July 2016, 21:34

Hit a major milestone today ....

Now the Miata is up on jack stands for a timing belt replacement.

doane2u

1st July 2016, 22:00

I had a leaking rear valve stem and had some vibration I thought might be wheel balance. Took it back to the shop that did the tire install last January and they balanced the rears again and put new valve stems on them for free. While there, I had the fronts re balanced as well and they discovered a lug nut post was stripped. They had to take the wheel apart and put a new post in and new lug nut and now all is fine. They charged me a very nominal amount as this was probably related to their tire install.

Unusualdesigner

1st July 2016, 22:36

OK guys, let's keep this thread and comments on course; it's about what you have done to your NB.

Not all "mods" are for everyone, that's what makes Miatas special; you are free to make yours "yours". Imagine if they all were the same color, had the same tires, etc, etc.... -dullsville!

Thank you :thumbs:

Now back to our regularly scheduled discussion in progress..... :wave:

CopenKagan

1st July 2016, 23:38

Installed the Power Pulse Muffler (love the tone and volume) and put a coat of Opti-Seal on the paint.

KGMonteith

1st July 2016, 23:46

Picked up L'il Red this week from the body shop, where the faded rear bumper was painted and clear coated to match the rest of the body, which was previously painted to repair hail damage. Love the glossy red again! 247555

doane2u

2nd July 2016, 00:21

OK guys, let's keep this thread and comments on course; it's about what you have done to your NB.

Not all "mods" are for everyone, that's what makes Miatas special; you are free to make yours "yours". Imagine if they all were the same color, had the same tires, etc, etc.... -dullsville!

Thank you :thumbs:

Now back to our regularly scheduled discussion in progress..... :wave:

Exactly and I think it's pretty neat to see someone make their car stand out from the rest of the crowd. :thumbs:

5Miata10

2nd July 2016, 00:43

While you have that out, find some dynamat like sound deadener to put on the deck and firewall. It makes a huge difference.

"My roll bar is supposed to be delivered tomorrow so I started prepping for the installation today by stripping the interior. Going to clean up the area before tomorrow."

BTW - I got mine inspected today. Passed! And I got a "nice car" from the tech. (is it wrong when the tech brags that he "helped" a guy out with a modded WRX with no cats?)

Hurt

2nd July 2016, 10:30

Flushed the cooling system this morning and refilled with nothing but Redline Water Wetter and distilled water. Waiting for it to cool down and top off and we'll see if it cools a little better. The Lisle spill proof funnel is worth more than it cost.

Manniquin

3rd July 2016, 11:20

Vacuumed / Washed / vacuumed the carpet.

I even pulled out the left foot rest and cleaned it - man that gets dirty.

As was the water being sucked up into the carpet cleaner's waste water bin.

Car should be mint'y fresh for our drive to Connecticut in a week.247631

zellers88

3rd July 2016, 16:06

Now with 100% more hardtop.

http://i.imgur.com/PKue7hB.jpg

J3cubrc

4th July 2016, 12:49

247724
Participated in a Kick-off Rallye for the upcoming Vintage Grand Prix. Actually, it was yesterday.

thecause17

4th July 2016, 17:54

Finished up the roll bar install.
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii278/thecause17/rollbardone2.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/user/thecause17/media/rollbardone2.jpg.html)
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii278/thecause17/rollbardone1.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/user/thecause17/media/rollbardone1.jpg.html)

Uncle Hoonsalot

4th July 2016, 19:26

Changed out for the donut on the side of the interstate. There was something in the road I didn't see, and it punctured my tire.

Currently at Walmart trying to patch it. Hope it holds. I've got 90 or so miles to drive to make it home tonight.

Uncle Hoonsalot

4th July 2016, 21:13

While I am sure this is unrelated to the tire, the keyless entry has now stopped working. When I push the lock or unlock button on the remote, the lights flash, but the doors do not lock and the trunk does not open either.

With the door closed, and the ignition on, there is a clicking noise coming from underneath the dash. It seems like it's coming from near the steering column. The noise stops when you open either door or when you turn the ignition off.

Hurt

5th July 2016, 10:16

Found an old stock case of Motorcraft XT-M5-QS transmission oil at my local Ford dealer. They haven't sold any in years. The parts guy offered it to me at cost...$20.19 per quart. I got the full case. Heck of a find. Retail is over 40 bucks per quart.

Unusualdesigner

5th July 2016, 10:32

Found an old stock case of Motorcraft XT-M5-QS transmission oil at my local Ford dealer. They haven't sold any in years. The parts guy offered it to me at cost...$20.19 per quart. I got the full case. Heck of a find. Retail is over 40 bucks per quart.

Great price if you really need it. My experience with it was less than stellar. -in fact made a quiet transmission noisy and notchy.

Of course, YMMV. :)

Hurt

5th July 2016, 10:35

Great price if you really need it. My experience with it was less than stellar. -in fact made a quiet transmission noisy and notchy.

Of course, YMMV. :)

Odd, that's what most everyone on here says to use. I had my transmission oil changed several years ago at 30k and that's what was used then. That oil has been in my transmission for 33,000 miles and still shifts smoothly. I just figured it was time to do it again.

Hurt

5th July 2016, 10:42

What transmission oil are you using?

Unusualdesigner

5th July 2016, 10:47

What transmission oil are you using?

Redline "Lightweight Shockproof" (http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=43)

Quiet and shifts like butter.

Hurt

5th July 2016, 10:49

Where did you find it? I've had good luck with Redline products over the years.

Unusualdesigner

5th July 2016, 10:51

Where did you find it? I've had good luck with Redline products over the years.

In my area Advance Auto Parts carries it in stock. Go to the Redline web site and look at their retail distributors' list. -that's how I found it.

For the slight price difference over the other stuff, I use Redline stuff on gear boxes and differentials. Engine oil not so much unless I find a real good deal.

Hurt

5th July 2016, 10:53

Thanks

Unusualdesigner

5th July 2016, 10:54

Thanks
:wave:

Hurt

5th July 2016, 11:13

I went on Redline's site. Entered my car info. Redline says it's not right for my MX-5. They recommend their Standard 75-90 for mine.

Unusualdesigner

5th July 2016, 11:58

I went on Redline's site. Entered my car info. Redline says it's not right for my MX-5. They recommend their Standard 75-90 for mine.

Of course.... however, it works wonders on mine. -your mileage may vary ;)

I believe that Ford makes the same disclaimer regarding Miatas.

Chris GTO TT

5th July 2016, 15:29

Great price if you really need it. My experience with it was less than stellar. -in fact made a quiet transmission noisy and notchy.

Of course, YMMV. :)

You're not the only one who has noticed a noisy transmission with it. My car sound like it has marbles in the transmission with this fluid, especially after a cold start.

Hurt

5th July 2016, 15:48

I'll give it a try. I can always sell the Motorcraft stuff on Fleabay.

Unusualdesigner

5th July 2016, 16:21

You're not the only one who has noticed a noisy transmission with it. My car sound like it has marbles in the transmission with this fluid, especially after a cold start.
You should have seen the flaming I got when I posted about my experiece about 3 years ago :)

Hurt

6th July 2016, 01:33

There is a lot of flaming going on in this site. Must be a lot of youngsters here.

Qubit563

6th July 2016, 03:38

After much conclusive planning, yesterday I obtained the following: (BP5A ECU - Collections of I/O pin referencing - Used OEM ECU I/O female plug pigtails).

Today and throughout last night I completed my custom wiring harness for my selected signal modifier ECU. M.K.A "Piggy Back".

After much deliberation, soldering and heat shrink wrap, proved auspicious for testing.

Bench testing confirmed connectivity, and continuity.

I wish everyone a wonderful day.

WolfgangK

6th July 2016, 15:09

Two possibilities:
Blocked return hose or reservoir
Bad or wrong radiator cap.

There is only one path -unless you have a leak- for coolant to get back in.

The overflow tank had a bunch of thick gunk right at the outflow hole (???!!??). Looking at the coolant, it might not have been changed/flushed EVER in 85K!!:bang:
Well, it's been changed now and once cleaned out, the new radiator and overflow tank seem to have stabilized. It wasn't the cap after all.
Thanks!
Wolfgang

WolfgangK

6th July 2016, 15:17

Changed the fuel filter over the weekend. Think I noticed a slight increase in power. The stuff on the inbound side of the old filter certainly looked cloudier than normal gas. Wife didn't like the smell of my shirt when I got done though....
Wolfgang:D

Unusualdesigner

6th July 2016, 15:33

Yep, preventive maintenance is is a foreign concept for some people. :D

Glad you got it sorted out.

zellers88

6th July 2016, 16:30

After much conclusive planning, yesterday I obtained the following: (BP5A ECU - Collections of I/O pin referencing - Used OEM ECU I/O female plug pigtails).

Today and throughout last night I completed my custom wiring harness for my selected signal modifier ECU. M.K.A "Piggy Back".

After much deliberation, soldering and heat shrink wrap, proved auspicious for testing.

Bench testing confirmed connectivity, and continuity.

I wish everyone a wonderful day.

Is this for a custom piggyback or something like a Voodoo?

Kylini

6th July 2016, 21:38

I'm having some stuttering that sound like knocking at idle. At first, I thought it was a bad tank of gas, but I've since flushed it out with good 91 octane (I have advanced timing on my '99). I'll see where I am after I clean out the intake and throttle body, replace the plugs, and wires.

While I'm in there, I plan on replacing the rear CAS cap and valve cover gasket.

Davedave

6th July 2016, 22:23

Cleaned and degreased the engine then removed the valve cover to replace the leaking gasket. I decided to replace the blank CAS seal plug in the process so I stopped work until I get a new plug. I'm not sure the plug was leaking but since it's accessible with the valve cover off I might as well. Car has the seal replaced at least once in 178,000 miles.

DwightDoane

6th July 2016, 23:58

https://scontent-mia1-1.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/e35/13534482_1732975796981162_2074591026_n.jpg

bought it.
2000 LS
45k mi
$4900
:)

parking my 91 for now...

amptramp

7th July 2016, 18:55

Got it through emissions testing today - simple enough because it is now just a read of the OBDII data.

khungie

7th July 2016, 19:05

https://scontent-mia1-1.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/e35/13534482_1732975796981162_2074591026_n.jpg

bought it.
2000 LS
45k mi
$4900
:)

parking my 91 for now...

Wow...that's a pretty good find! Enjoy!

Uncle Hoonsalot

8th July 2016, 14:30

Bought factory small side skirts, mud flaps, spoiler, and a GV front lip.

Now to get it painted and read revlimiter's post about installing those things again! The Mazda instructions are mystifying...

bobesser

8th July 2016, 15:08

Washed it - well, part of it.

http://i.imgur.com/1qK9n0ul.jpg

bobesser

8th July 2016, 15:16

Also cleaned debris out of fenders:
http://i.imgur.com/72UGoYCl.jpg

shoult

8th July 2016, 15:59

Washed it - well, part of it.

http://i.imgur.com/1qK9n0ul.jpg

Reminds me of when I didn't have my 67 MGB GT ready for the University Motors Annual Summer Picnic in time, so I just brought this to display....

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s309/shoult/Vehicles/1967%20MGB%20and%20MGB-GT/67MGGrillatUMLSummerPicnic.jpg (http://s155.photobucket.com/user/shoult/media/Vehicles/1967%20MGB%20and%20MGB-GT/67MGGrillatUMLSummerPicnic.jpg.html)

Unusualdesigner

8th July 2016, 16:25

Finished "baselining" the new-to-me '99 by proactively replacing the radiator since it was starting to go "green".

With the radiator out removed thermostat and lightly bolted neck and back flushed system with a couple gallons of distilled water until it ran clear from the lower hose.

Installed thermostat with new gasket, installed radiator and filled with 60/40 distilled water and Mazda Spec coolant [blue] -yeah, I know... heater core still had old stuff but that's a small amount and it wasn't that bad at all.

PO was pretty 'on top' of stuff and with only 45K miles other fluids were fresh.

And NO MOTORCRAFT oil in it at all!!! :rofl: -it's an Auto trans :rofl:

thecause17

8th July 2016, 17:13

Changed the transmission in diff fluids in mine today with Redline fluids. I decided to try a 50/50 of MT-90 and MT-85. I still need to do the turret. I have ordered new boots and will do that when they show up.

GTScott

8th July 2016, 19:40

Adjusted the coilovers...13" at each corner

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Nk9HuMZVOuU/V4A3yFWueeI/AAAAAAAAExw/Db1WMbxUgCoxtW65CVeVBkKpAmwWS_V4wCCo/s800/IMG_6026.JPG

dee wreck

8th July 2016, 21:20

Not today but the past weekend... Installed front and large rear mudguards on the car. Thanks to the two fellow m.net members for the great deal. You know who you are! Also got some OEM 5 spoke with kinda old tires for $90. Couldn't resist since I wanted to conserve the Toyos for my entry into autox!

doane2u

8th July 2016, 21:53

Not today but the past weekend... Installed front and large rear mudguards on the car. Thanks to the two fellow m.net members for the great deal. You know who you are! Also got some OEM 5 spoke with kinda old tires for $90. Couldn't resist since I wanted to conserve the Toyos for my entry into autox!

Looks good, glad you like them and hope the install went smoothly! :thumbs:

daender

8th July 2016, 23:22

Installed Mazdaspeed Miata pedals, now I gotta hunt a matching dead pedal!

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/q85/s720x720/13576721_998353840260790_8559004311969234358_o.jpg

CopenKagan

9th July 2016, 00:18

Adjusted the coilovers...13" at each corner

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Nk9HuMZVOuU/V4A3yFWueeI/AAAAAAAAExw/Db1WMbxUgCoxtW65CVeVBkKpAmwWS_V4wCCo/s800/IMG_6026.JPG

Looks great!

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